I now enter the last stages of the Via Francigena before reaching the highest elevations. As I walk for hours, I can’t help but be mesmerized by the high, snow-capped peaks of the Alps. There is a strong sense that my walk will soon change significantly from anything I have encountered before.
Day 47 Lausanne to Montreux
Today was spent entirely alongside (or above) the shores of Lake Geneva. My eyes were constantly drawn to the immense mountains across the lake that seemed to change in appearance every time I looked up. And a lot of public artwork.
This is also wine country, so when my path ventured above the lake, it was usually through vineyards. I type these words while enjoying a local wine made from those grapes. I can’t complain!
The world-famous Montreux Jazz Festival starts soon, and the city is already busy setting up the venues. The place is hopping!
Sunday, with good weather, brought out a lot of people!
Wine bottle label artists have been inspired by these buildings.
Public Art
Day 47 AllTrails Stats
Distance: 27.3 km / 17.0 miles
Elevation Gain: 394 m / 1,293 feet
Steps: 36,588
Relive: https://www.relive.cc/view/vPv4VEVJGR6
Accommodation: La Rouvenaz, Montreux
Day 48 Montreux to Bex
Other than gorgeous morning lake views trading off for gorgeous afternoon mountain views, today was a pretty uneventful 1½-stage walk. The ever-present public art pieces of a vibrant city were left behind when I entered a wide valley of wheat fields, vineyards, and numerous villages. All surrounded by the sharp serrated edges of alpine ranges. The valley in which I’ll be moving over the next few days always beckoned. But even after hours of walking deeper and deeper into it, the far-distant mountains that hold my high pass to Italy never seem to get any nearer.
Public Art
Day 48 AllTrails Stats
Distance: 25.8 km / 16.1 miles
Elevation Gain: 433 m / 1,421 feet
Steps: 34,958
Relive: https://www.relive.cc/view/vKv2nAXD1ov
Accommodation: Hotel Le Cedre, Bex
Day 49 Bex to Martigny
I moved further up the valley and deeper into the mountains, but I know full well that the gentle grade means the true climbing is still yet to come. Today’s route should have felt easier than it did. The gorge near the charming village of Saint-Maurice strengthened the headwind I faced and seemed to push the Rhône River with greater force than gravity. It was also hotter than it’s been for most of my trip: the highest I saw on my thermometer was 31C (88F). I don’t mind that, though, because the forecast calls for a storm to come in a couple of days with a significant drop in temperatures, particularly at elevation.
Public Art
This mural is 3D, with elements that protrude from the wall, changing the image as you move your viewing point.
For weeks, I’ve come across these silent, lonely sentinels responsible for the manicuring of vast stretches of lawn. I decided it was high time to catch a quick video to give them their 15 seconds…
Day 49 AllTrails Stats
Distance: 22.9 km / 14.3 miles
Elevation Gain: 665 m / 2,182 feet
Steps: 32,357
Relive: https://www.relive.cc/view/vYvE2L81wwO
Accommodation: Campanile, Martigny
Days 1-49 AllTrails Cumulative Stats
Distance: 1,118.2 km / 694.8 miles
Average Daily Distance: 22.9 km / 14.2 miles
Elevation Gain: 22,234 m / 72,9461 feet
Steps: 1,723,613
