Having crossed France, Switzerland, and the Alps, I am now ready to enjoy all that Italy has to offer: beauty, history, food, wine, art, music, and more. The beautiful region of Aosta Valley is a perfect place to start!
Day 55 Aosta to Châtillon
The stage today took me down the Aosta Valley, but instead of following the river, my route went up and down, in and out several times along the north slope. It meant a lot of climbing for a “downhill” stage, which also meant a lot of beautiful views down towards my destination, back up to where I started, and across this famous valley in Italy’s Northwest. I passed numerous hillside villages and hamlets, churches and castles, factories and mines. And water running downhill – always water.
I walked a few kilometers on my own and was starting to catch up on some podcasts and an audiobook I’d neglected for a couple of weeks when I came upon two men whom I immediately recognized as American. Son Spencer is walking (most of the way) to Rome on the VF, and Father Steve joined him for the stages from Lausanne for two weeks. They’ve been behind me one day all this time, and my rest day in Aosta let them catch up. Caminos and Vias just work that way.
As it turns out, we have a lot in common: they are from Marin County, and also call the San Francisco Bay Area of California home. Steve works in tech, so we know some companies and people in common. But I felt even more connected to Spencer, who just graduated after four years at Trinity College in Dublin and will soon move to Guinea in West Africa to serve as a Peace Corps Volunteer. It looks like we’ll be tracking closely together for the next two days, so I hope we’ll have more time to talk about our shared Interests.
Day 55 AllTrails Stats
Distance: 30.9 km / 19.2 miles
Elevation Gain: 841 m / 2,759 feet
Steps: 46,261
Woohoo! Personal bests for VF daily distance and step count!
Relive: Sorry – none today. It’s been pretty flaky in the mountains…
Accommodation: La Rocca Sport & Benessere, Châtillon
Day 56 Châtillon to Verrès
Today felt a bit like a replay of yesterday, except that ⅔ of the way, the wide valley narrowed into a narrow, steep-sided gorge before opening up wide again. The route continued to traverse the “left side” of the valley, and while it wasn’t that far of a distance, it sure did a number on my body. How, I ask myself, after nearly 1,500 kms, can my body find new ways to struggle with hot spots, blisters, sore ankles, heat rashes, and new bug bites?
Most days, I feel strong and capable. Today wasn’t one of those days. I write these words with some trepidation about the 30km I’m expected to cover tomorrow.
One thing I know (and I offer this simply as an explanation, not as an excuse…), I haven’t had as much sleep as I usually get. For 3 consecutive nights, I have watched the late matches of the Euros in Germany. They have been entertaining, but I will choose to read about tonight’s games at breakfast tomorrow and rest up tonight.
Day 56 AllTrails Stats
Distance: 17.3 km / 10.7 miles
Elevation Gain: 461 m / 1,512 feet
Steps: 27,183
Relive: https://www.relive.cc/view/v26MjW23YEq
Accommodation: Essenza Hotel, Verrès
Day 57 Verrès to Borgofranco d’Ivrea
I have to admit it: today was tough for me. I combined one relatively short stage with ⅔ of the next so that I will have a short walk into Ivrea tomorrow and spend time there as a tourist without taking a full rest day. I also wore my Chacos sandals throughout the day to relieve pressure on my feet, and took advantage of some shortcuts to keep my distance down. The result was that I missed three of the higher stretches and found myself looking up the hillsides at old castles and ruins instead of walking amongst them. Not ideal, but doable.
As I make my way down the Lower Aosta Valley, the refreshingly clear, cool alpine air at elevation has given way to a hot, dusty haze rising from the large plains. In fact, I officially crossed from the Aosta Valley area into the Piemonte Region, the “foot of the mountains.” Or, at least that’s the correct interpretation when you’re approaching the mountains from the South. In my direction, it’s more like where one is spit out onto the endless expanse of hot rice fields.
I know this sounds like I’m complaining, which I try hard not to do. So I apologize. But it stems from frustration. My tracking data says I’ve walked more than 1,500 kms as of today, since setting out from Winchester, England, on The Pilgrims Way. My personal expectation is that I would have sorted through all the challenges one faces on long treks. It’s not like I’ve had a specific injury: I haven’t slid down a cliff, tweaked a knee, or been hit by a car. Those situations would be easier to accept than the possibility that I’m just… wearing out.
I just checked the calendar. I’m on Day 66 of my Schengen Visa. 24 days left. Three more weeks before I must look seriously for a train ride to the nearest international airport.
I wonder where that will be…
I wonder if it will be as close to Rome as I have been hoping…
I wonder if I can manage my mood.
Public Art
Day 57 AllTrails Stats
Distance: 27.6 km / 17.1 miles
Elevation Gain: 379 m / 1,243 feet
Steps: 37,545
Relive: https://www.relive.cc/view/v36AGBVjxZv
Accommodation: Private Home, Borgofranco d’Ivrea
Day 58 Borgofranco d’Ivrea to Ivrea
I received a lot of kind words of support overnight. And a few none-too-subtle kicks in the rear. Thanks, I needed both! I am SO lucky to be out here, and I have nothing to feel sorry for myself about!
After a good night’s sleep, I was up early to start my short walk through the forest to Ivrea. Pilgrim Dirk walked it yesterday and warned me about the hungry mosquitoes, so I first stopped at a farmacia for repellent.
As the locals here all call out to me: “A Roma!”
The most noteworthy sight on today’s short walk over the last few kilometers into Ivrea was the Castello di Montalto Dora. My route allowed me to see it from various angles.
Castello di Montalto Dora, 10th-11th Century
Day 58 AllTrails Stats
Distance: 10.9 km / 6.9 miles
Elevation Gain: 236 m / 774 feet
Steps: 19,482
Relive: https://www.relive.cc/view/vZqN1e5yDG6
Accommodation: Dora Maison de Charme, Ivrea
I’ve decided to take an unplanned rest day tomorrow before I set out on several days of long, flat, and hot stages across the expanse of the Po Valley. I’m hoping the break will nurse my feet back into better shape.
Days 1-58 AllTrails Cumulative Stats
Distance: 1,285.5 km / 798.8 miles
Average Daily Distance: 22.2 km / 13.8 miles
Elevation Gain: 27,613 m / 90.594 feet
Steps: 1,999,657
Rest Day: Ivrea
I didn’t plan, expect, or want another rest day so soon after Aosta, but I’m glad I took it. I needed to stay off my feet, so I skipped the highly-renowned Science & Technology Museum, which exists here because Ivrea is the worldwide headquarters of the Olivetti Company (now part of the TIM Group).
The city’s commercial history is just part of what makes it a fascinating place. It’s also home each year during Carnival to the “Battle of the Oranges,” the largest food fight in Italy and the surrounding countries.
I wasn’t here at the right time to observe those festivities, but I did spend hours watching the amazing flow of the Dora Baltea River. This is the waterway I have been hiking along since I crossed over the Col from Switzerland. The heavy rain this year, aided by the steep descent of the Aosta Valley, is delivering a flow of great fury that creates what I can only describe as a “lateral waterfall” in the middle of the river. This same feature contributes to Ivrea’s status as a center for world-class river kayaking. The world championships were held here in April this year, and I got to watch future champions train at their summer kayaking camp. So much fun!
I always enjoy being an ordinary tourist in Italy. But as I write these words, I’m anxious for a good night’s sleep and a start across the plains tomorrow. The next two weeks are a stretch that many pilgrims choose to cross by bus or train. My plan is to walk into the Central Apennines of the Emilia-Romagna Region, where Joanie and I walked our first Via together one year ago. I think it will be a good place to finish the first half of my VF when my visa expires.
Anything can happen, but it’s good to have a plan!
Public Art
The Torta 900 was created in the late 19th century by master pastry chef Ottavio Bertinotti of Ivrea, and named to celebrate the arrival of the 20th century (“Novecento”).
