I spent time over the winter holidays in Thailand and Laos, where I saw friends, explored new places, hiked in national parks, and visited temples and historical sites. Starting in the south of Thailand, I made a counter-clockwise loop through the less-visited region of Isan, a couple of stops in Laos, then back into the north of Thailand. I even took the “slow boat” on the Mekong River, but in the opposite direction that most people travel (which made it the “even slower boat”). I didn’t take many photos, but are some of the highlights…
The weather was overcast and rainy when I took the high-speed boat across Phang Nga Bay from Phuket to Ao Nang in Krabi Province, but the iconic karst formations were still incredible to see when the skies began to clear.
The sun came out in the following days, and I was excited for the chance to climb to a high point for the view. The sign at the top affirmed what my sore legs told me: these 1,260 uneven steps are equivalent to a 60% gradient!
The view from the summit was nice, though the hazy air limited my view of the distant mountains and the Andaman Sea.
During my trips to Thailand over the past few years, I often encountered people urging me to explore Isan, a region less traveled by tourists. Many of my Thai friends from bustling Bangkok hail from Isan, and they, along with others, described it as the area that best embodies Thailand’s reputation as “The Land of Smiles.” Although Isan lacks the infrastructure found in more popular tourist spots, its farmland, national parks, and historical sites drew my interest. Over several weeks, I navigated through towns, villages, and cities using trains, buses, taxis and motorbikes. While the travel itself was sometimes challenging—especially without knowing the local language—I always felt comfortable.
Khao Yai, established in 1962, is Thailand’s first and largest national park, covering 2,165 square kilometers (836 square miles). The park features a well-designed visitor center with informative displays and offers seven hiking trails ranging from 1 to 8 kilometers. The two longest trails require advance reservations with a local guide to ensure safety, protect the environment, and support the local economy. I shared a guide with a group of city dwellers from Bangkok, who were not accustomed to jungle treks, leading to some amusing and memorable mishaps that kept our spirits high.
I heard birds, gibbons, and other wildlife, yet never saw any of them in the field. However, our guide did point out these fresh claw marks made by one of the local bears. Park officials estimate that there are around 300 Asiatic black bears and fewer than 100 Malayan sun bears in the park.
Although I wasn’t able to see any animals in their homes, I was very happy this guy came out to see us.
Here are images of some of the park’s other residents, taken from large posters in the visitor center.
Prasat Phimai is the largest ancient Khmer-Hindu temple in Thailand, dating from the late 11th to the late 12th century. It marks the end of the Ancient Khmer Highway from Cambodia‘s Angkor Wat. Its size is comparable to that of Angkor Wat, but with a fraction of the annual visitor numbers. Despite being built by the Khmer Empire, which was Hindu, it served as a Buddhist temple since most people in the area had been Buddhists for centuries. As the first visitor of the day, I had the place to myself for over an hour before other tourists arrived. I think I heard whispers in the shadows.
Khon Kaen is Thailand’s fourth largest city with a population of 417,000 and is one of the “big four” cities in Isan (the others are Udon Thani, Nakhon Ratchasima, and Ubon Ratchathani). To my eyes, they all look fairly similar and all have fantastic urban temples like these, in various shapes and sizes.
Of the big four cities in Isan, only Khon Kaen had a planetarium and observatory with public viewings scheduled each evening after sunset. The images on display were great, but never have I wished more to understand the Thai language to better follow along!
I loved my reunion with Jovan and his family, whom I had met on my last visit to Laos in late 2023. We enjoyed delicious food both at home and out, and then we took a nice tour around some of the city’s landmarks. We also took a fun hike past unique geometric formations and colorful altars embedded in shallow caves. As always, the view of the Mekong River was worth the climb.
Slow Boat from Luang Prabang
A popular excursion for backpackers in Indochina is the renowned two-day “Slow Boat to Luang Prabang.” That journey begins with a two-hour bus ride from Chiang Rai, Thailand, to the Lao border, followed by a leisurely descent down the Mekong River from Houayxay. The boat stops overnight at Pak Beng before reaching beautiful Luang Prabang, a UNESCO Heritage Site.
Since I was going in the opposite direction, I caught a boat returning to its origin. This meant traveling upstream, which extended my trip to three days and added an overnight stay at the Lao-Thai border crossing. This slower pace made the voyage incredibly relaxing and allowed me to enjoy the stunning natural beauty and rural life of the riverside villages and hamlets.
Also known as The Blue Temple, construction took place between 2005 and 2016 on a design pioneered by Chalermchai Kositpipat, “employing lavishly ornamented sculptures and psychedelic visual imagery.” (Wikipedia)
On my last night before flying home, I had dinner with Tim, the brother of a longtime friend from California. He’s been living and working in Thailand for decades. We figured that we probably had met before at some point, but enough time had passed that I enjoyed getting to know him as if for the first time and learning how much we have in common. It’s always nice to make new friends!
